Arrow Archery

If you are tired of your noisy treestand, then you must not be hunting in a lone wolf stand. I own many different tree stands, from APIs, Ole Mans, Gorillas and Loggys. Some are better than others, but most all of them carry the potential to make noise. I like to stand up when I shoot. I try to stand up as early as possible, partly because of my concern that my stand might creak or pop. It is a problem that has cost me deer in the past. It is tough enough to beat a deer's nose, let alone their ears. That is why I've been looking at the Lone Wolf treestands.
They solve this problem by manufacturing their platforms in one piece cast aluminum. This provides a sturdy, but silent base. No creaks or pops from hollow tubes or worn welds. They have also added non-slip footing to their base to minimize the possibility of slips. The one piece aluminum platform is at the core of their quality design. It doesn't stop there though. They have minimized the amount of moving parts on their stands.
Lone Wolf has several models of Hang On Stands, Climbers, and Climbing Sticks. They also offer a selection of hand climbers and seats. Their hang on stands typically weigh in the 11-22 lb range, but have a weight rating of approximately 350 lbs. I'm particularly fond of the Assult Hang On Stand, that comes in at 11 lbs ... Ideal for a long hike into the woods.
As far as climbers go, I like the Lone Wolf Alpha Sit & Climb. It weighs just 20 pounds, a huge platform, and a comfortable, contoured foam seat pad and back rest. It fits trees betwee 6" - 19" in diameter, but longer traction belts are available for larger trees. The Alpha Sit & Climb has an exclusive cam-action fastening system that features a locking tooth design. This makes for easy on and easy off, as well as easy adjustment.
Lone Wolf has also made a Wide version of the Alpha Sit & Climb. It only weighs one pound more at 21 lbs, but has a roomy 21" wide seat.
So if you are in the market for a new stand, check out what Lone Wolf has to offer. Lone Wolf is making a lot of noise amongst hunters, but their stands are quiet as can be.

The most important piece of gear that a hunter who hunts from a tree stand can have is a safety harness.

Do you wear one?

Hunting with a safety harness is common sense. Let's face it, hunting from a tree stand can be dangerous. You may think that since you are in a climber that you don't need one, but accidents can still happen. Should a cable fail, or some other mechanical malfunction occur, what's to stop you from taking a 20+ foot drop to the ground?
My safety harness is the one piece of gear that I am always double checking to ensure that I have before I leave for my hunt. I do this, because I have forgotten my harness in the past, and I have to tell you that I just wasn't comfortable sitting in the stand. The risks are great, and something as simple as nodding off during a hunt could be the last thing you do. Besides your safety harness, you also need to make sure that you have a good point to anchor it to the tree. I love the cinch ropes that come with the API tree stands. They are adjustable, easy to put up, and offer great security.
Many years ago, I heard stories of a hunter on the property near us that fell from a stand and died. He was missing an arrow from his quiver, and it was suspected that he had fallen while taking a shot.
The following year, a good friend of mine took a fall from his tree steps, and ended up with a pretty nasty concussion. He was wearing his safety harness, but was untethered at the time, because he was transitioning from his hang-on stand to his tree steps. This can be one of the most dangerous times of your ascent or decent. The time where you are transitioning from your steps to your stand. He didn't remember much of what happened after the fall, but did remember losing his balance, and reaching back for his stand. Appearently he missed.
So it is important to make sure you are tethered before making the transition from steps to stand. And don't untether until you have transitioned from stand to steps at the end of your hunt.
This is one piece of gear that you don't want to skimp on. The safety harnesses that come with your tree stand are typically junk, and should be thrown away. I recommend a lineman style harness, or a vest style harness. I have been hunting with a Seat of the Pants harness that I have owned for years.

There is nothing unmanly about wearing a safety harness. It's just common sense. In some states, such as Arizona, the use of safety harnesses is even included in Hunters Safety courses now. If you own a cheap harness, or no harness at all, then take a look at some of the deals below.

Every avid bow hunter wants to carry the best gear possible into the woods. For me, this desire extends past my bow, and includes arrows, broadheads, clothing, and other accessories.
To maximize the hunt, arrow selection is probably the most important factor for a bow hunter outside of the bow and bow accessories. I used to shoot heavy aluminum arrows, but switched to carbon arrows years ago. I did this for several reasons.
One of the first things that sparked my interested in carbon arrows was the hype associated with them. With so much talk and industry buzz around carbon, I had to see what the hype was.
I had several problems with aluminum arrows that switching to carbon arrows solved for me:

1. Bent Arrows
   A problem that I have experienced when transporting my bow back and forth to hunts, or on the 4 wheeler.  The durability and flexibility of aluminum was always a concern for me.
2. Life Expectancy
   I used to retire aluminum arrows after shooting a deer with one.  In my experience, the life expectancy to aluminum after shooting a deer was not good.  Maybe it was the type or size of aluminum arrows I was using, but I have destroyed many aluminum arrows over the years.
3. Quietness
   I believe that carbon arrows are much more quiet that aluminum.  Removing aluminum arrows from the quiver, dropping it in the rest, or contacting brush or branches would often result in the metal 'tinking' sound.  I don't have that convern with the carbon arrows I shoot today.

So I've made a quick case for why I like carbon arrows better than aluminum arrows.  This is often a debated topic, and you will find people on both sides of the fence that are adamant about their arrow selection.

Which arrows do I like?  I'm a big fan of Carbon Express, especially the Maxima line.  Carbon Express is a very respected manufacturer of carbon arrows and shafts.  They have four different offerings in the Maxima line:

• The Carbon Express Maxima
• The Carbon Express Maxima Hunter
• The Carbon Express Maxima 3-D Select
• The Carbon Express Maxima Hunter Mathews Edition

I'm shooting the Carbon Express Maxima Hunters this year.  These arrows fly like a dream.  They use Bull Dog Nock Collars, Blazer Vanes, have a great Timer Illuzion camouflage pattern, and integrated weight forward technology.  They are light-weight and strong, and the Blazer vanes give them added velocity.

I haven't measured the speed of these arrows off my Mathews Switchback, but I am driving nails with them.  So if you are looking to move to carbon arrows or just looking to upgrade, check out what the Carbon Express Maxima series has to offer.

I have always been a big fan of NAP Thunderhead broadheads. This year I'll be making a change though. I've been researching the new broadheads on the market, in search of a new option that will give me a more true arrow flight. In the past, I have tried some of the 'open on impact' broadheads. These claim to give you field-point-like flight, but on two occasions shooting does, I didn't blow the arrow all the way through, even though I was shooting a fast bow. Now I have to admit, that these were large diameter cutting width open on impact broadheads, and that may have had something to do with it.
So the dilemma is the choice between choosing a broadhead that will cause massive trauma, or choosing a broadhead that will give the most true arrow flight as possible. I am opting for the choice that will give the best arrow flight, because even the biggest trauma-inducing broadhead can't replace a well-placed shot. Even a small broadhead that results in a well-placed heart or double-lung shot will yield the results I am after.
So I am looking at the Slick Trick Broadheads. Slick Trick began the super short broadhead trend back during the 2000 AMO show.
Slick Trick's design claims to yield field point flight, which is exactly what I am after. They feature four-blade broadhead designs, in 85, 100, and 125 grains. They range from 1" to 1 and 1/4" cutting diameters, and feature razor sharp blades. They use a patented interlocking blade system that provides superior strength when combined with the 1 piece steel ferrule. The characteristics I am after in a broadhead are accuracy, strength, penetration, and massive hemorrhaging. These are all characteristics that Slick Trick offers.
I'll be armed with 125 GR GrizzTricks this season. You can check out the deals on find more details on Slick Trick broadheads below.

It is no secret that I am an archery fanatic.  I like the traditional aspect of the hunt, and the increased level of difficulty involved in bow hunting as opposed to gun hunting.  The thrill of the hunt and the close quarters action is what gets me going.

When you look at the modern archery equipment on the market today, one could argue that it isn't necessarily that traditional.  Fast compound bows with high let-offs, armed with fiberoptic sights, torque stabilizers, and dampeners definitely have an edge over traditional recurve bows.

I'm not going to abandon my Matthews Switchback, but in an effort to get even more challenge out of the hunt, I've recently picked up a Browning Cobra 2 Recurve Bow.  I have to say that I love it.  I haven't shot recurve bows since I was a kid at camp.

I was initially struck by the look of this bow.  I love the different layers of laminated wood.  I personally believe that Browning was a strong leader in the quality an manufacturing of recurve bows.

After stringing this bow up and shooting it a few times, I was struck by the differences between traditional recurve bows and modern compounds.  The most noticeable difference was the lack of the let-off.  With a compound bow, your draw weight peaks before you reach full draw, and then the draw weight is reduced by 65 - 80% at full draw.  The recurve is the opposite, where the draw weight starts off light and increases to the peak draw weight at full draw.  As a compound bow hunter, I tend to draw a little early and let my shot develop because I can hold my full draw due to the letoff.  With the recurve, I will probably wait and draw right at the point that I will shoot, because it will be more difficult to hold full draw.

I'm looking forward to the challenge though, and can't wait to get into the woods with my recurve.